CosmeceuticalsNovember 24, 2017
"Cosmeceutical" describes a product that is a cross between a cosmetic and a pharmaceutical. A cosmeceutical is essentially a skincare product that contains a biologically active compound that is thought to have a pharmaceutical effect on the skin.
Cosmeceuticals are classified in different categories and include the following:
Moisturizing agents: Are ingredients used to prevent dryness of the skin. They fall into three categories occlusives, emollients and humectants.
Occlusives: These form a barrier on the outside of the skin, locking in moisture and increasing the overall moisture content. They include beeswax, candelilla wax and avocado oil. Emollients: They prevent dryness and protect the skin acting as a barrier and healing agent.
Emollients: Water is the best emollient, but it doesn’t work well for products because it evaporates quickly. Natural emollients actually nourish the skin and are recognized and metabolized by the skin’s own enzymes and absorbed into it. Some examples of natural emollients are plant oils (eg. Jojoba, Avocado, Rosehip) and Shea and Macadamia butters.
Humectants: They are substances that are capable of attracting water and conserving water in the skin. When a person has dry skin, their skin cells are being shed too quickly, coming off in clumps that look like white flakes as opposed to cells being shed individually. Repeated application of a moisturizer increases the water content of the skin and normalizes skin turnover.
Humectants used in Definitive Rose formulations include:
- Beeswax: Helps the skin retain moisture.
- Glycerine: Vegetable based. A naturally occurring clear, colorless, odorless emollient, assists in retaining moisture and is helpful in pulling oxygen into the skin.
- Glyceryl Stearate: This acts as a lubricant on the skin's surface, giving the skin a soft and smooth appearance. It also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin's surface. At Definitive Rose we use glyceryl stearate as an emulsifier in our products.
Barrier Repair Agents: Are similar to a moisturizing agent, but the overall objective for applying it is different. Barrier repair agents are used for people who have some degree of compromised skin.
Healthy skin decreases transepidermal water loss and helps keep unwanted compounds out of the body. When your skin is compromised, you are more susceptible to allergens, irritants and infection.
A barrier repair agent seeks to enhance epidermal barrier function, reduce transepidermal water loss and reduce inflammation. The action is achieved by replenishing lipids in the skin.
Essential fatty acids referred to as EFA’s play an important role in supporting skin barrier function and topical application of EFA rich oils help enhance barrier function and repair, and decrease transepidermal water loss. Oils high in EFA’s that are in Definitive Rose formulations include, evening primrose, avacado oil, carrot seed oil, grapeseed oil and jojoba oil.
Antioxidants: Are ingredients that help the body eliminate or fight the effects of free radicals, making them a key ingredient in the prevention of skin aging but not in treating wrinkles because the damage has already been done. Antioxidants are a group of beneficial nutrients, vitamins, minerals and enzymes, capable of slowing or preventing the oxidation of other molecules. They help to remove the free radicals and slow down the oxidative damage that causes the skin to age.
Antioxidants found in Definitive Rose products include: Coenzyme Q10, Vitamin E and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).
Anti-Inflammatory ingredients: Calms down any inflammation in the skin. Such inflammation may be shown as redness, pain or swelling.
Inflammation is thought to play an important role in the process of dermal aging as it can cause a breakdown in the connective tissue components collagen and elasticin. By preventing or reducing inflammation in the skin you can prevent further deterioration of connective tissue.
There are many botanical ingredients that can be used for their anti-inflammatory properties like botanical extracts and absolute oils. Examples of well known anti-Inflammatory plants include, calendula, chamomile, lavender.
Cosmeceutical Ingredients used in Definitive Rose Products include:
Co-enzyme Q10: Potent antioxidant with effective anti-aging & anti-wrinkle properties, reinforces collagen & elastin production of connective tissue, potent moisturizer (liposomes penetrate into skin, preventing water loss). It is found in Perilla seed oil, grapeseed oil and sesame oil.
Ester C: More concentrated version of Vitamin C (sodium ascorbyl phosphate). It increases collagen production, including dermal collagen which plays a significant role in the fight against wrinkles, and reduces inflammation.
Vitamin E (Tocopherol): Plays a crucial role in protecting skin cells and membranes from environmental damage. This protection extends to preventing damage to the skin from UV rays, pollutants, and the effects of aging.
Hyaluronic Acid: Is 100% natural ingredient extracted from a vegetable similar to a wild yam. This key ingredient acts like a sponge drawing moisture in while stimulating the production of collagen.
Sodium hyaluronate: is a salt derived from hyaluronic acid and it has unique advantages for skin because of its molecular size. During the process of creating sodium hyaluronate, its molecular weight decreases due to the removal of lipids and proteins. When applied topically, it can penetrate the skin more easily than hyaluronic acid.
Alpha Lipoic Acid: Alpha lipoic acid is an antioxidant that is in many foods, and is made naturally in our bodies. ALA is of great benefit to skin when applied topically. It is one of the most powerful anti-aging, antioxidant, antiinflammatories available.